Start: COCKBURNSPATH Finish: BURNMOUTH.
Distance: 35.6kms Total Time: 10.13hrs
Jumped onto the 253 Perrymans bus and 40 minutes later arrived in Cockburnspath. Walked towards the information board which included a map of the Berwickshire Coastal Path and also the Southern Upland Way which also start from the same point. The conditions overhead were cloudy and drizzly stuff falling. After approx 10 minutes crossed the A1 and railway line and arrived on coast properly. Unfortunately due to recent wet weather the path was a muddy, slippery mess and had to take great care.
Never walked on this part of the coast before today despite only living about 50 minutes away and was blown away by the beauty of the coastline. Completely different to the sandy beaches of Bamburgh and Northumberland coast, this is rugged cliffs and small fishing harbours.
After travelling along coastal for about 1 hour the route crosses by the holiday centre at Red rock and then turns inland and away from the coastline. As I looked ahead I saw another walker approximately 1km ahead. I would spot the same person several times during my day but never got chance to speak to him.
After walking along the road for a short time I got to Redheugh farm and this was where the way markers for the coastal path seemed to disappear. Walked through fields of sheep and cows before finally arriving at Dowlaw where I sat and had 10 minutes rest. By now the sun was out and I was down to a single layer.
The following 2 hours towards St Abbs was some of the most beautiful coastline that I’ve seen. The grass fields were golf course standard and I can’t put the beauty of the coast into words. On reaching St Abbs met the first other people of the day, then more people and then hit the crowds at St Abbs head and the lighthouse.
Stopped at St Abbs about 2.30pm and treated myself to a cup of coffee and large bowl of chips at the cafe.
I continued along the coast and met a cyclist pushing his bike who warned me about the dangers of the muddy conditions towards Eyemouth. He wasn’t wrong and I took my time not wanting to experience a muddy backside.
Had originally planned on stopping at Eyemouth after about 28kms but it was only 5 o’clock and I didn’t feel like stopping just yet. I pushed on past Eyemouth and skirted along the golf course intending to find a flat piece on ground where I could pitch my tent. As i got beyond the golf course I got my first glimpse of Burnmouth and wondered if I could push on to there. Checked the map and saw the PH sign which told me there was a pub and a cool lager to be had. Had was all I needed to push me on towards Burnmouth.
On arrival at Burnmouth I headed for the pub named ‘First and Last’ After ordering pint sat down and was joined by a nice couple who lived in the village. Unfortunately they didn’t know of anywhere nearby in the village where I could pitch my tent. They did suggest a farmers field approximately 30 minutes walk further along the coastal path. I then left the pub, it was pushing towards 8.00pm and I didn’t want to pitch the tent in the dark. I passed by Partanhall and after a short climb I found the farmers field and avoiding the sheep/lambs I pitched the tent just before it got dark.
Summary: Great scenery but rubbish muddy path for a lot of the route. Have blisters on both heels, when I checked this out, realised that I had forgot to insert the insoles into my boots. Tomorrow is going to be painful.